Cackle talk: Desired and undesired breeding

Broodiness is the natural instinct of hens to incubate eggs and thus ensure the safety of their offspring. This broodiness is stimulated by hormones, particularly the hormone prolactin, and occurs mainly when the days become longer and warmer, starting in spring.

Now there is nothing more beautiful than actually letting such a broody hen hatch eggs and then seeing her scratch around the yard with a bunch of chicks. However, not every hobby chicken keeper is looking forward to chicks and actually wants to end the broodiness as soon as possible. In this clucking talk, we will further discuss broodiness when it is unwanted. Unwanted because you don't want chicks or because you want to spare your hen. Broodiness is a huge burden for the hen; she hardly eats, leaves the nest only occasionally to relieve herself, and is also an easy prey for, for example, red mites. She completely sacrifices herself to ensure that healthy chicks hatch after 21 days. Therefore, it is especially sad if she is sitting on unfertilized, or even completely empty, eggs.

Unwanted broodiness can partly be prevented by choosing the right breeds. Laying hens, the so-called hybrids, as well as traditional chicken breeds that have historically been bred for egg production, such as Leghorns, Barnevelders, and Welsummers, rarely or never become broody. For laying hens, broodiness is undesirable because production stops. On the other hand, there are also (cultural) breeds that tend to become broody more than average, such as Silkies, Cochins, and Brahmas. Broodiness occurs regularly in most popular hobby chicken breeds and can therefore be undesirable. There are several methods to interrupt this broodiness so that the hen becomes 'non-broody' again. To understand these methods and apply them as effectively as possible, we first need to know what stimulates broodiness and what the broody hen needs, in order to counteract these needs appropriately.

We have no influence on the days becoming longer and warmer, but we do have control over the conditions in which the hens are kept. Many eggs in the nesting boxes and well-placed nesting boxes (in a quiet, dark place) with good bedding promote broodiness. The process of breaking broodiness starts with removing the eggs and repeatedly taking the broody hen out of the nesting box or (temporarily) closing off the nesting box.

Unfortunately, this is not sufficient in most cases, and we must take more drastic measures. In the past, broody hens were hung in a cage or jute bag in a tree, or the hen was regularly dipped with her underside in (ice-)cold water, which was effective but, in terms of welfare, is no longer acceptable.

If the brooding has just begun, placing the hen in a (dog) crate, without a bottom and without bedding on a bare (concrete) floor in a light, airy spot works. The sooner this method is used, the more effective it is. We provide the hen with water and after two days some regular chicken feed. A (perch) stick in the crate is also recommended; if she wants to use it, her underside will be extra 'ventilated'. After a few days, the hen will start to walk around, and with that, she will no longer be broody.

When she will start laying eggs again also depends on whether you were on time; a hen that has just gone broody can start laying again after a week.

Hans Krudde

(About desired broodiness and the care of a broody hen more in the next clucking talk)