Do blood mites die in the chicken coop from the freezing cold in winter?
As mentioned above, not all blood mites die in the chicken coop due to freezing cold. This is because the blood mite population is divided into different stages: eggs, young blood mites, and adult blood mites. Adult blood mites will die from the freezing cold. However, the young mites and eggs will still remain in the chicken coop. Eggs can withstand freezing temperatures and will wait to hatch until it gets warmer. The young mites can also hibernate alongside the eggs. They do this by entering a kind of hibernation (a sort of latent state).
Red mites
14 April '22 • 4 min reading time
At what temperature does red mite become 'active' again?
A red mite becomes 'active' at temperatures above 5° C and is then able to lay new eggs. Contrary to what many poultry keepers think, the problems with red mite actually begin in winter rather than spring. The vast majority of these laid eggs in winter wait to hatch until the temperature rises in spring. This explains why there is suddenly a large outbreak of red mites during a period of warmer weather. Development to larva and adult mite starts at 10° C. At temperatures above 20° C, red mites produce 8 eggs per day.
Should you treat for red mites in winter?
Red mites are nearly unreachable with pesticides in winter because they hide and come out less often to feed on blood. However, there are several measures you can take to prevent the remaining eggs and red mites from causing a major outbreak when the weather warms up: 1 – Hang a test tube under the perch. Red mites are often only noticed in the chicken coop when there are already too many. To recognize red mites earlier, you can simply hang a blood mite test tube under the perch. Red mites always seek the closest place where the chickens roost to build their nests. They do this in a spot that the chicken cannot reach, otherwise, the chicken would eat them. By hanging the test tube under the perch, the red mite will be the first to build its nest there. The tube contains a wooden stick that you can easily remove to check for red mites. This way, a red mite problem is recognized earlier, and you can prevent a major outbreak. 2 – Treat preventively, even in winter. Since red mites hide in winter and hardly come out of their hiding place, it is advisable to protect the coop against red mites. As soon as the young blood mites head towards the chickens to feed for the first time, they will be stopped by a layer of sticky spray based on silicon dioxide sprayed in the coop. This layer lasts about 3 to 4 weeks. Therefore, we recommend spraying a new layer every 3 weeks on the path that the red mite takes from the cracks and seams towards the perch. So don’t wait until spring to start spraying, but do this throughout the year every 3 to 4 weeks. Because if you are too late, the young mite will be able to drink blood from the chicken. With this blood, they can lay new eggs, and you will have even more red mites. It is crucial to prevent reproduction so that new eggs are not laid. 3 – Thoroughly clean the chicken coop in spring with a pressure washer. A pressure washer is the only way to reach many hidden eggs. In winter, it is too cold to deal with a pressure washer because the chicken coop does not dry properly afterward. Therefore, take the first opportunity in spring when it is a bit warmer to thoroughly wash the chicken coop with a pressure washer. Let the coop dry well and then spray it with a layer of spray containing silicon dioxide. 4 – Ensure a mineral dust bath all year round. Chickens have a natural need to take a dust bath. Did you know that even chickens in battery cages used to exhibit the same behavior, without access to a dust bath? Therefore, ensure that chickens always have access to a dust bath. The special dust bath powder against red mites has a strong drying effect on red mites. You will also see that chickens eat the powder when there is a mineral deficiency, which benefits the quality of the eggshell. For example, choose a dust bath based on various minerals and with a uniform grain size, as this adheres best between the feathers.
Conclusion
A part of the blood mite population will indeed die from the freezing cold. However, the eggs and young lice can survive the winter. They do this hidden in cracks and crevices, making them invisible or unreachable with treatment products. When the temperature rises above 5° C, lice can lay eggs. Nowadays, this often happens during the winter months as well. These eggs wait to hatch until the temperature exceeds 10° C to 12° C. This explains why there can suddenly be a blood mite outbreak in the spring during a period of warmer weather. It is best to monitor and treat for blood lice year-round. Do not stop this in the winter. Hang a test tube under the perch to detect an outbreak in time, create a dust bath with special dust bath powder, and also spray the coop in winter with a coop spray.
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