My chickens have red mites, what now?
Red mites make their nests in a dark place where the hen cannot eat them. They often hide in cracks and crevices or, for example, behind nesting boxes. There are often wall shelves installed in a chicken coop, and the red mite can be found in the shelf brackets. So don't forget to unscrew and remove all parts from the chicken coop. You can burn the nests with a weed torch or use a pressure washer on them.
Red mites
14 April '22 • 4 min reading time
Reach both the red mites in the coop and on the chickens
The accessibility of the red mites with a pesticide is essential for a successful outcome. To apply the treatment correctly, you need to know the behavior of red mites. Red mites only feed on the chickens' blood once every 6 days, and they do this at night. When they are not on the chickens, they hide in cracks and crevices in places that the chickens cannot reach. Therefore, it is important to treat both the coop and the chickens themselves. 50% of all red mites in the coop feed on blood, while the remaining 50% do not. This is why treating with just a spray or just a dietary supplement only addresses half of the problem. With the combination, you reach almost the entire population, except for the eggs that still need to hatch.
Step-by-step plan for treating red mites
The following step-by-step plan is one of the most effective methods for managing a red mite infestation: Start as soon as possible with the dietary supplement through the feed and/or water. Do this for at least 14 days, but preferably longer. You will initially see more red mites because they will frantically search for food and cannot access the feed for the chickens. This is the correct outcome. Unscrew all components in the chicken coop, such as the nesting boxes, wall shelves, perches, and windows mounted on the wood. Clean the chicken coop thoroughly with plenty of water, preferably with a pressure washer. This will wash away some of the eggs and mites. Ensure that the coop dries well afterward. Spray the perch, all seams and cracks, and the path from these seams and cracks to the perch thoroughly with the silicon spray. Repeat this every 2-4 weeks. Install red mite trays on the perches and fill them with an oil based on lemongrass. Make sure these trays remain clean, as red mites will walk over them when there is a layer of dust on the oil. Removable red mite trays are very suitable for this purpose. Create a sand bath with fine sand for the chickens to bathe in. The sand between the feathers also provides a natural defense. Choose a bathing sand based on minerals and a uniform grain size. This adheres best between the feathers and can be ingested by the chicken. Repeat the pressure washing after 7 days if the infestation is very large.
Detecting Red Mites Earlier
With the above step-by-step plan, you apply the right method to treat both the red mites in the coop and on the chickens. To prevent an outbreak of red mites in the future, it is wise to take measures. With a red mite test, you can check for the presence of red mites. Hang the two test tubes at the bottom of the perch (and place one in the nesting box) and check each week for red mites in the tube. Additionally, you can implement the following preventive measures: Create a sandpit with bathing sand where the chickens can bathe. Ensure that you clean the coop regularly. Allow the coop to ventilate properly from time to time. Spray a layer of silicone spray in the coop every month.
Why does an infestation seem to keep coming back?
Adult red mites lay up to eight eggs per day. These eggs only hatch when the conditions are optimal for them. This can mean that the eggs may hatch a year later, or for example, after two months. This makes it seem as if none of the measures have worked. However, this is not true. It is important in the treatment that the number of red mites is brought under control. Removing 100% of all red mites is nearly impossible. Once red mites are in the coop, you can assume that there are still eggs that will hatch for the time being. And if you stop treating, these eggs have free rein and everything starts over again. That is why a red mite test is recommended. This way, you know when new eggs have hatched and when you need to start treating again.
Chemical vs. Natural
There are many types of products on the market, many of which are chemical. In addition to being harmful to animals, humans, and nature, blood mites easily build up resistance. You will see that it works at first, but if you already have many blood mites in the chicken coop, they will eventually become resistant to that chemical product. To prevent this, we recommend combating blood mites with natural means, a sandpit, oil trays on the perch, and a pressure washer.
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